• New Turbo for the new engine!

    H-Squared Racing Engines in Houston Texas is building my forged LS which will run on E85. Looking to make over 1000hp. Will switch up my intake, bigger injectors and then this 88mm Turbo from a local shop called Smeding Diesel in Boerne!

    My current 6.0 LS runs fine, it just has stock internals. I had this one built to test out my Camaro and to shake out any bugs before the Billy Badass engine goes in.

    The new LS should be done next month. K1 Crank, Eagle 4340 Rods, Wiseco pistons, custom grind cam, Johnson lifters, billet timing chain, stainless steel valves etc.

  • Rottler F-65 CNC Computer repair service

    If you have an old Rottler F-65 CNC and still have your original installation software and/or hard drive, I provide a data recovery service and custom PC replacement to get your system back up and running.

    Please go to my Contact Me page to send me an email. We can discuss what I will need from your system. Before ANY work is completed I will let you know if I can recover your data. There is NO CHARGE if I cannot recover data.

  • Rottler F-65 CNC Machine fixed.

    I was tasked with bringing this Rottler F-65 running an Actek PC back to life.
    The software is no longer available and the Actek PC is super old. The hard drive went out along with the PSU and bad memory. I was able to fix the Actek computer but the hard drive was shot.

    What I ended up doing was writing some custom software to pull data off of the original 3.5″ floppy disks. I was able to pull off the “Rottler” install and the “FlexCAM/FlexCNC” install. The “Shutdown” software I wasnt able to fully recover but from what I saw, it wasnt needed.

    In addition to software recovery I built a small industrial PC, installed Windows 10 and a USB to Serial cable. Had to make sure the settings were correct on the Rottler software side and the PC side. Worked out well!

  • Bringing a Rottler F-65 CNC back to life

    I’m an IT guy by profession. I’ve taken on standard jobs like network configuration, server builds, website builds, securing servers and websites, software support, written custom software for SuperFlo machines, fixed engine dynos etc.

    Well a buddy of mine works at a speed shop which does pretty much everything from turbos to high-end engine builds. Their Rottler F-65 CNC had taken a turn for the worst. Not sure how long it had been down, weeks, months, not sure. The problem with the machine wasn’t that it was time to replace it but that it was running an old PC with Windows 98 along with Rottler’s software. They had installation software but they were on floppy disks and in bad shape. The hard drive was bad, couldnt recover any data from it. Rottler MFG did not have a copy of the install software, so pucker factor was high since I had to recover data. I decided to take a crack at it. 🙂

    I was able to repair the Actek computer it comes with. Power supply was bad, memory was bad, along with being very dirty. The problem here is that I’d have to Frankenstein it. Power supply no longer available, so it would need to be external. Hard drive is IDE, I could swap it to Compact Flash but then I’d still end up with a machine that runs Windows 98 and if I’m lucky, it’ll keep running for a few years. If it goes bad? Cant find parts.

    I wrote some software to help me pull data off of the floppy disks. I was able to recover the Rottler and FlexCAM floppys and about 50-60% of Shutdown. Shutdown doesnt look like its needed so I didnt care.

    Next test was run it on a VM in VirtualBox in Windows 98. Works fine. Ok, lets test on my spare laptop running Windows 7. Worked! Took it to the client’s shop, hooked up my laptop with a USB to Serial adapter cable and here we go! Pic of it not working below, the internals of the Actek computer and then of it communicating with the F-65 and working on my spare laptop.

    I’ll build an industrial mini-pc and transfer Windows 7 along with the Rottler software on it. Then we’ll run a block thru.

  • Just testing

    6.0 LS
    Stock rebuild with TU2 Cam
    s475 turbo
    12# boost
    93 pump gas
    315/60/15 ET Street Radial Pros
    Foot brake at about 2300-2400 rpm

    Spins from 1st to 2nd in both vids. 2nd vid, I stay in it and smell some smoking rubber. LOL

    Looking to hook up my line lock, trans brake, boost controller and then going up to 20# boost and E85!

  • PiDash Status

    Its been a few months since I had any PiDash update. Car has been down for some maintenance during that timeframe so I havent had a chance to mess with PiDash *in the car*. I did make a change. Bought a new Pi4 and updated it to boot off of USB. I now have two Pi4’s. One has the standard SD boot and the other, USB. I will copy over my configuration and test to see which is faster. Updates soon!

  • PiDash v04272020 with WiFi Direct and WiFi Network Transfers

    This will probably be the last version of PiDash I put out since I think it does what its supposed to do.

    The purpose of my PiDash is to allow users of EFI Source Gold Box/Megasquirt EFI boxes a PiDash you can put in your car to monitor/tune your vehicle for FREE (other than buying TunerStudio from EFI Analytics). The previous versions require some sort of Linux knowledge and the willingness to tinker in Linux. The problem is when people want a simpler turn-key solution, it might put off someone from using this and they’ll end up paying for something that isnt worth the price they paid.

    This version of my PiDash includes the latest BETA version of TunerStudio. You can use your registration code if you already have one to register this copy.

    PiDash v04272020 has the following:
    1. Fast boot like previous versions
    2. WiFi hotspot for direct connections to your PiDash
    3. SAMBA for transferring data to/from your PiDash
    4. WiFi networking to transfer files to/from you PiDash via a network

    Late Bug Fix:
    1. When running Enable Network, doesnt display IP address. Fixed it in “enablenet.sh”.

    This works on a Pi 3B+. I’m using a Pi4 because its newer/faster.


    Raspberry Pi4 (2GB version is fine) $45
    16gb microSD card $6
    Longrunner 7″ touch screen $62
    Windshield mount (if thats what you’re doing) $15
    Raspberry Pi4 aluminum case with dual fans $25

    There is only ONE IMAGE available which covers both Longrunner 7″ Touchscreens and then stock displays.
    1. DOWNLOAD FROM THE PiDash Wiki page

    If you have a display other than Longrunner you may have to put in the correct settings in the config.txt file. If so, write the image to a 16GB microSD card (in Windows use Etcher) and edit the config.txt file with Notepad. Scroll to the bottom of config.txt and remove the “#” sign as stated in the pics below starting with “max_usb_current=1”. Then save the file, remove the microSD card, insert it in the Pi4 and boot it up.

    If you have different settings, you can put them in the config.txt file at the end INSTEAD OF uncommenting as stated above.

    You only use Config-WiFi *once* to configure your wireless settings. If you mess up, run it again and it will recreate the template for you to edit.

    The video below shows the features and how to enable WiFi Direct and WiFi via network access.
    Any issues, just comment and I’ll review.

    Here are some pics of the latest 80 mile round trip to the parts store for some NGK BR7EF spark plugs. Had someone take pics of the engine compartment, crusin with Federales (LOL) and of course, the PiDash showing my 19MPG. 🙂

    80 mile round trip to the parts store
    Crusin’ with the Federales. LOL
    PiDash showing my turbo car with its 19mpg. 🙂

  • New PiDash coming out soon.

    What I’m trying to do is make it super easy to get your PiDash on your network so you can download logs, upload a new tune, upload a new dash you bought/designed etc. Here is a demo of it working in my Turbo Camaro.

    One thing to note is, TunerStudio saves the date/time in the filename. Since the date/time is not correct on my PiDash or yours unless you have a Real Time Clock installed, it shows the wrong date in the filename. This can be confusing. I recommend copying your logs off of the PiDash and deleting them off of the PiDash once you finish copying.